Lily Allen's new 'vintage inspired' line of clothing.

Lily Allen looking wonderful.

 

Lily Allen has launched her collection of vintage inspired fashion on the back of opening her boutique Lucy in Disguise. I’m always torn on the subject of Lily Allen.  She is a genuinely pretty woman and I liked some of her music, she is also a bit useless on the PR front, I’m inclined to blame it on this more than fame whoredom.  Additionally she has my sympathies after recent tragic events and I think there are worse crimes than being a public school mockney.  

I was actually hoping to like her new collection, I’m keen on vintage styles being reproduced or even reworked and hoping for a knock on effect.  Prada’s collection is rumoured to be fortiesish this Autumn and if it has anything like the daft effect of producing all that fruit on clothes in the high street like their last collection did this summer I’ll be happy.  The problem is that my first reaction to Lily’s collect was a big ‘ugh’. To be honest it did not help that the inspiration for many dresses was 70’s so not actually vintage but I’m getting used to the fashion world's loose lipped application of the word. Just because they keep on calling it vintage won’t make it so,  although it may do wonders for marketing!  It was probably the fact that the first thing I saw was a play suit that sat somewhere between tacky burlesque kit and Ann Summers.

Arrrghhhh....go to Tara Starlet!

 

Then I reminded myself that these clothes were not produced with anyone like me in mind, and not at all for the vintage enthusiast. Rather they are for the kind of girl who shops at Topshop and wants to flash a bit more cash. The stuff is far more contemporary than vintage.  I think that Lily should have simply marketed the stuff as inspired by her taste as I can see this more in the clothing and that is completely appropriate. The ones intended to hark back to fashion eras miss the mark, a long black dress with elegant trimmings really needs sleeves of some kind, a mint coloured dress is almost there but goes a bit modern high street with the trimmings. My favourite is a seventies inspired blue dress, nice colour and looks lovely on Miss Allen.  But in short there is nothing there that I would wear, or I suspect many readers of this blog would wear. You can find more vintage redolent clothing in Monsoon and my favourite reproduction/vintage inspired dress companies produce better stuff. After all you could get a Whirling Turban dress for the same price as Lily’s.

Nice silhouette, needs sleeves.

 

Having said this I like the idea of smaller clothes lines and if this is a success maybe she will be braver in her clothing choices, she has someone on board who was at Oasis and who has form in producing good occasion clothing so this could happen. 

What do you people think, would you wear it? Have a look at Katy Chutzpahs blog for a more, ahem, reasoned take on the collection.

Vivien of Holloway shop review.

Exterior of Holloway Road Shop.

Vivien of Holloway’s designs are probably the most instantly recognizable within vintage/retro styled circles. Her trademark polka-dotted creations with full fifties circle skirts preferably filled with a confection of netted petticoat can be spotted at most vintage events. This popularity had initially put me off buying one I find it off -putting when strangers point to you and name your dress manufacturer before you have even been introduced. Then there was the fact that I am concerned there is actually a limit to how many polka dots one should own. I currently possess thousands and feel like a lyric in a Libertine’s song already. Also I had heard that it was quite difficult to judge the fit and sizing on-line. Several girls I knew had to return their orders and had become frustrated. Personally I think this is simply an innate risk with mail-order goods and you just have to try until you find the right size and learn to love your local Post Office. The fact that many V of H items are boned gives them a three dimensionality that is hard to reflect in flat measurements of inches and cms.

Polka dots!

Recently I have increasingly felt that it was time to give this popular brand a whirl, and there were a number of reasons for this. One was that I have seen the titular Vivien around and about, a glamorous voluptuous blonde lady and a fine advertisement for her wares. I believe you should judge the dress by its maker, I was always going to like Lulu Guinness bags because I like the way Lulu Guinness looks.

The proprietress at her counter.

Another was the ever widening range of tea dresses, forties dresses and sarong dresses. The range of fabrics has also expanded with plenty of non-spot choices. The final impetus to buy was the opening, last year, of a new shop located naturally enough, in Holloway Road. Whilst Holloway Road itself can be shabby there was nothing grubby about the shop. It had a light spacious feel. The eponymous dresses were lined up in orderly fashion on rails at either side. I approve of this wholeheartedly as I loathe having to edge around displays and racks. The vintage element was not over-egged; an old fashioned display case fronts the till and contains all the nick knacks you might need to accompany the clothes. Changing rooms at the end of the room are faced by a series of free standing mirrors. Also a good idea as they can be adjusted and there is space for potential customers to see those skirts swirl and swish. Whilst the shop radiated a fresh orderly prettiness the place was utter bedlam! I had not read the small print on the website about bridesmaids booking slots at the weekends. The place was heaving and the four changing rooms were indeed commandeered by a group of giggling bridesmaids. The staff revealed themselves to be a positive asset, they managed the combination of politeness and firmness required to handle clueless bridesmaids and impatient non-bridesmaids . The bearded one was dispatched to the neighbouring café and I waited patiently.

It was actually really interesting to observe others changing. A group of blonde, faintly chavvy girls in Allsainty clothes were instantly transformed by the polka-dotted circle dresses into extras from a Dennis Potter drama. What I noted immediately was how much the designs showed off all figures. Stick insects suddenly achieved curves and the curvy girls were clearly made to fill these frocks. I enjoyed seeing the staff persuade recalcitrant twenty somethings into belts to remind them their waists didn't sit right under their busts. Paradoxically the bridesmaids seemed more feminine but also more sassy. Another peculiar thing was that they seemed cleaner and fresher. That shabby jersey jeans washed - out look makes girls look dirty as well as scruffy! The Vof H dresses are actually a great idea for weddings, inexpensive, flattering to most shapes, you can do the same dress in different colours and they can be sold on.

The fact I had to loiter for a while was a good thing because I decided to try on more than I intended and picked a couple of random choices. The dress I had my eye on was not available in my size in the fabric I wanted, I was advised that new stock came in mid-week and that was the time to come. I anticipated that the sarong dress, with its tapered skirt and flattering wrap detail was likely to suit my figure which strays into ...ahem ...rubenesque territory. I chose a couple of these. I also tried a bolero top. This is a stroke of genius. Bingo wing sheafing is important, those with busts also have to sigh and accept that bra straps are a necessary evil. Also a little shoulder coverage is just simply elegant. However I grabbed a couple of the circle dresses. I had always thought these, with all their fabric would be unflattering to anyone who was not thin or tall. The 'sugar plum fairy fear 'I call it. However a Mexican day of the dead dancing skeleton fabric dress called out to my Goth nature. Having picked one of those to try I thought ‘what the hell, I’ll try one of the ultra-satiny bright ones,' mentally I had discounted them because on the hanger they looked slightly stage costumey.

Upon trying the dresses I was surprised to find that the internal bodice was sturdy enough alone to cope with my considerable prow. This was assisted by the fact the bodice area is designed to fit quite snugly. None of this was uncomfortable. The sarong dresses were good, providing a curvy elegant silhouette however the size was a bit too tight, however if I lost even a kilo or two it might sit quite nicely. Then I moved onto the circle dresses, I loved the skeleton one. The halter top is very flattering and the swish of the skirt deeply satisfying on a girly level. The wild card was the vividly coloured silk dress. Not what I would usually wear, but when I came out in it the response from the assorted vintage types waiting was ‘buy that one!’ So having walked in intending to buy a sharp silhouetted deeply coloured dress I emerged with two swishy circle dresses and spent more than I intended (boleros were of course needed to accompany them). I am wearing the brightly hued one this weekend and we’ll see then if I look like a jolly green giant!

The green satiny circle dress.

I don’t have any gripes about the clothes at all, within the reasonable price range the finish, production and fabrics are what they should be. What I would like to stress is that the range, although comparatively limited is very flexible. It occurred to me that a lot of the simple block colour fabrics could be dressed up very well using trimmings. I am think of doing this to the sarong dress and bolero in black which I think might work really well with a fringed trimming I have seen. Vof H’s clothes are also becoming very popular with other alternative groups in London, they work as well with cyber-punkish dreads as they do with Victory Rolls. I would recommend visiting the shop if possible to try dresses for size but to avoid the weekends if possible. A weekday visit could, I think, be a nice relaxing experience. Finally the caff next door did a nice light Turkish breakfast and a copy of The Chap was on sale at the counter: Top stuff!

Minn x

Vivien of Holloway homepage here: http://www.vivienofholloway.com/

All photographs copyright Vivien of Holloway.