Reproduction retro hats, Orizu now selling on Etsy.

Orizu who makes delectable hats has now opened an Etsy store. For handmade and bespoke titfers the prices are reasonable and the hats, previously mainly available in London can now be obtained everywhere. The shop can be found at www.orizu.etsy.com

Here are a few of her wares (I particularly like the one embellished with rope): 

Seriously coveting these hats..... xx

Amateur Millinery

Materials, sisal hat base, vintage abalone buckle, grossgrain ribbon, vintage pansy trimming and elastic.

Some of you who know me personally are aware that I am far from being a homebody, my efforts to knit have been pointless as I lack the patience, I'd like to be able to sew but am intimidated by the effort required to learn. I find baking to be a waste of time although perversely I am more than competent, it is just dull (unlike eating which is positively exciting). I can even throw a pot as well as a tantrum however none of this will help me to dress myself in things I have made, my sole talent being basic embroidery, which you cannot wear on its own. So it was quite brave of me to attempt to make a hat considering my grade  A level in cack-handed sewing. However I could not find the kind of hat I wanted: not a fascinator, not a little feathery thing, not moth bitten and not £200. So I decided to dip my toe in a little very very basic amateur millinery. I was helped by the fabulous Georgina at Atelier Millinery who gave me advice and equipped me with the basics, which you can see above.

Step 1 was to sew a few pansies around the hat just using a robust sewing needle and cream thread. I was planning to wear it at a tilt and concentrated on one edge.

Step 2: I then made a bow using the grossgrain ribbon and sewed it over the pansies hiding their stems which I had trimmed previously, I also attached a few stray pansies to make it look a bit more girly.

Step 4: I added some elastic under the brim so it could be affixed to the side of the head.

I am not sure the effect is quite what I wanted, perhaps it is a little fussy or would be better with some net veiling. Also it was a fiddly job although it only took me a couple of hours. This is the reason why, money and time permitting using a professional milliner is the way to go. Really this wasn't hat making so much as assemblage. On the positive side there was nothing in any mass retailers that had the same feel and there is the opportunity to pick colours and trimmings to fit your own sensibilities. I love pansies, particularly mauve ones and although I could have done a better job it doesn't look too bad. 

Atelier Millinery- New Shop!

Exterior of Atelier Millinery

Hats are curious things. They have been deeply unfashionable for men and women since the mid 1960’s. Now they are relegated to the role of bridal tribal flying saucers or little sticky outey feather fascinators which often seem to have something of the muppet puppet about them. Of course at the high end of fashion they have never departed from the catwalk and have always had a small but passionate fan base; the late Isabella Blow comes to mind.

Wearing a hat versus not wearing a hat is the difference between looking adequate and looking your best. (Martha Sliter)

Hat detractors point to the awkwardness of carrying them around and the difficulty of finding somewhere to put them. It is a chicken and egg situation, when hats disappeared so did hat stands and hooks. If hats were popular again these would reappear, they never went away in truly stylish bars and restaurants. As for the awkwardness, these claims come from the same fashion forward people who drag massive stupid bags around and totter on gladiator heels. I am passionate about hats and in the winter make an effort to wear one, even if it is only a beret. If our inner-city yout can slope about in over-priced baseball caps quite happily all year round it is hard to understand the reluctance elsewhere to don headgear.

If a woman rebels against high heeled shoes, she should take care to do it in a very smart hat. (George Bernard Shaw)

In my opinion hats have wonderful advantages, although they need to suit your face and character they do not rely on diets or the vagaries of fashion and its innate body fascism. Few things will make you look as good, or as different as simply putting on a good hat. Stored they last for decades, they also keep your head dry, warm and hide bad hair. Of course in vintage circles hats have never gone out of fashion but there is a paucity of places to buy them, especially new or bespoke. I have mentioned Lynette in Islington for vintage titfers and Orizu for repro but a new resource for those interested in millinery has appeared in London. Additionally it is conveniently located in Kingly Court, near Carnaby Street and very close to my favourite hair artiste, Miss Betty and a plethora of other vintage minded shops.

Lots of lovely hats.

Atelier Millinery is on the first floor of Kingly Court. Within you can find hats ready to buy (for both gents and ladies), trimmings and hat making materials and also attend classes. You can also commission a hat, particularly useful when all the department store have on offer are rows of mad looking fascinators or dowdy straws in colours you don't want.

Trimmings.

The shop is small and reminds me of a sewing box, large antique display cases hold a variety of trimmings, ribbons and veiling, some of which are vintage (such as ostrich feathers in a range of shades) and/or sourced from abroad. This is particularly useful as new trimmings often don’t match old hats, and vintage hats often need to be repaired or pepped up. Of note to forties buffs are the poppies and pansies made of antique ribbon. A make do and mend staple when old Edwardian dresses were often denuded of their trimmings to produce hat decorations during the war. Atelier offer classes in making these flowers which make equally charming brooches and hair decorations.

Ribbon pansies.

Ribbons and hat pins.

It is difficult to learn millinery in London in a hobbyist sense, the main part-time classes at Morley run in the day time, otherwise it is case of working for a milliner. For dilletantes there is little opportunity to mess around with straw and felt. Atelier run courses in hat making including straw panamas, cloche hats and most appealing to me, 1950’s skull caps. If you consider you get tutoring, materials and a home made hat for the cost they are reasonable, the price list is available here.

You can flirt with a fan in your hand. You can flirt holding a cigarette, too. But a woman can really flirt with a hat. (Dolores Foster)

From the vintage point of view the range has plenty of possibilities; I saw a charming small hat in a silvery gold fabric with a fluff of feathers. A million miles away from cheap high street fascinators, it reeked of thirties Jean Harlow in a silky bias dress and Hollywood glamour. I was also taken by a turquoise hand blocked straw decorated with a vintage cherry trimming which had a kooky feel and would compliment a thirties or forties day outfit perfectly (see picture below). The gentlemen were also well served with a selection of panamas and caps. And as for the Dandies out there remember this could be an opportunity to order that mustard and burgundy fedora you’ve been yearning for.

Like any other hand crafted or bespoke item the hats are not particularly cheap but they are good value. Hats are pricey items, but remember they can be re-trimmed and they really are one of those things where cheapness is actually noticeable. Atelier’s hats are comparatively inexpensive. For the vintage-minded Atelier Millinery could be a useful resource, run in a co-operative way by people enthusiastic about their product and therefore deserveing of custom. I suspect they will do well with the Summer wedding/Race going crowd who can get their Treacy quality hats at a snip. However I would encourage vintage types, steampunkesses and others to have a look. It can be a nightmare to match hats to vintage clothes but a well placed hat band and trimming can make all the difference and there are very few places with informed staff who can advise you. If you don’t believe me just try Debenhams!

Comments make my day so please do! x

The rush of power to the head is not as becoming as a new hat. (Helen Van Slyke)